Domaine de Montbourgeau - Cuvée Spéciale 2015

Bettane & Desseauve

About wine:

A well-crafted veil wine, powerful in character, marked by aging, but with a resolutely modern style that preserves the freshness of the fruit (pear, citrus). A savory finish, slightly salty.

About the estate:

Nicole Deriaux has a soft spot for Chardonnay, preferably with character, which accounts for nearly 70% of her vineyard (10 hectares in total in the Étoile appellation, including 2 hectares of Savagnin). Her family has been here since 1920, and she has been at the helm for over 25 years, now supported by her sons César and Baptiste. All her wines express the Jura in the most beautiful and delicate way, with salty notes, subtle veils, and soon an interesting ouillé Chardonnay (2017 vintage). 2019 should mark the turning point in the conversion to organic farming. Montbourgeau shines at the top of Étoile.

Guide Hachette des vins

About the estate:

In 1920, Victor Gros, Nicole Deriaux's grandfather, settled in Montbourgeau. Her father, Jean Gros, cemented the estate's reputation. Near the 11 hectares of vines lies a bucolic setting, bordered by an avenue of lime trees leading to the wine cellars surrounding the family home. A benchmark estate in the L'Étoile appellation.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About wine:

I tasted the exceptional 2015 Cuvée Spéciale, a Chardonnay aged for an extended period under a veil, in a magnum bottle. I was able to compare it with the 2014, 2010, 2005, 1995, and 1985 vintages of the same cuvée. The 2015 shows a little more maturity and development than the 2014. It has a round palate, with a soft, fairly silky and smooth texture, with the floral flavors and roundness typical of Chardonnay in a ripe and powerful year.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About wine:

Colorful, it has the richness of the vintage going for it.

About the estate:

Still relatively unknown, the Étoile appellation can produce wines of great finesse, provided that the producer demonstrates tact and sensitivity. Nicole Deriaux, assisted by her son César, undoubtedly possesses these qualities. We particularly appreciate the estate's style, which is free of frills and artifice, offering straightforward, intense wines that are firmly rooted in the best Jura tradition without being backward-looking. The estate's cuvées achieve superb expressiveness; the Cuvée Spéciale, a Chardonnay aged for a long time under a veil, and the Vin Jaune are the most consistent in their excellence. The new Montangis cuvée seems to be of the same caliber. This careful and discreet work deserves more recognition and the full attention of Jura aficionados. The first star is very firmly in place.