Jean-Étienne Chermette - Moulin-à-Vent Rochegrès 2020

Bettane & Desseauve

About the domain :

Martine and Pierre-Marie Chermette are gradually handing over the reins to their son Jean-Étienne Chermette, who has been quick to introduce a number of important changes. In particular, the name of the estate: domaines Chermette instead of domaine du Vissoux. That said, the essentials are still there: 31 hectares of red Beaujolais, 5.5 hectares of white Beaujolais, 16.50 hectares of crus in Fleurie, Brouilly and Moulin-à-Vent. The domaine, renowned for its delicious, round wines, seems to have taken on a stricter style in recent vintages, perhaps more geared towards ageing. Nonetheless, the quality is still there, with a special mention for Les Garants and Les-Trois-Roches in 2016.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the wine:

The Moulin-à-Vent Rochegrès 2020 blends scents of sweet berries, cherries and rose petals with hints of spice in an inviting bouquet, followed by a medium- to full-bodied, rich and concentrated palate, its fleshy core of fruit framed by powdery tannins. Reminiscent of a more elegant version of Chermette's first interpretation in 2018.

About the domain :

Jean-Étienne Chermette continues to shape one of the region's most reliable portfolios at this southern Beaujolais landmark. As I've written before, old vines, assiduous but traditional vinification and barrel aging are the rudiments of the approach here. Young Chermette, who has launched his own label in parallel, reviewed in this dossier, reminded me that the domaine had obtained Terra Vitis certification in 2018, which is definitely a step in the right direction. 2021 at this address, as elsewhere, marks a return to a lighter, more ethereal and succulent style of Beaujolais that recent hot, dry vintages have tended to offer, but at this address, these virtues don't come at the expense of flavor or substance.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the domain :

The domaine's slogan, "l'art de faire le vin au plus près du raisin" ("the art of making wine as close as possible to the grape"), perfectly reflects the range of skills of artisan winemaker Pierre-Marie Chermette, now joined by Jean-Étienne, one of his sons. Chermette began his career on his parents' 10 hectares in southern Beaujolais, before acquiring 20 hectares in the Fleurie and Moulin-à-Vent crus, then in Brouilly in 2008. The wines revolve around a core of weathered fruit that charms while respecting the identity of the terroirs. A sign of quality, the wines age gracefully even in difficult vintages.

James Suckling