Domaine Bernard Defaix - Chablis 1er Cru Côte de Léchet 2023

Bettane & Desseauve

About the domain :

We welcome the return of Didier and Sylvain Defaix to this guide, who once again presented us with samples this year, and with good reason. Since 2009, the domaine has been converting to organic farming, and the first few years had somewhat altered the balance in the wines, which we didn't like at the time. With time, everything has settled down, and the wines tasted this year are worthy representatives of the appellation.

Bourgogne Aujourd'hui

About the wine :

Elegant aromas of citrus, white fruit and pineapple, with a lemony note. The wine is full-bodied, taut, dense, chiselled and ideal for laying down.

Guide Hachette des vins

About the domain :

Maison Defaix is a well-established estate in Milly, taken over by Sylvain and Didier Defaix, Bernard's sons. It is also a wine merchant created in parallel, working in the same spirit as the estate.

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the domain :

Founded in 1959 with just two hectares, Domaine Bernard Defaix today comprises 27 hectares (certified organic since 2009), supplemented by purchased grapes. Much of the production is fermented and matured in stainless steel, although the Chablis Vieilles Vignes and several of the premiers crus, as well as the Grand Cru Bougros and Vaudésir, feature varying percentages of wood, most of which is used. The wines are lively and punchy, with good depth and concentration, and I found much to admire in the estate's fine 2017 collection. They deserve serious consideration.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the domain :

Sylvain and Didier Defaix are at the helm of the family domaine de Milly, whose vineyards are located on the left bank of the Serein. Their Premier Crus, a little less well known than those on the right bank, are a real surprise in warm years, particularly on the Côte de Léchet terroir. Thanks to skilful vinification and ageing on lees in vats, the wines gain in body and protect themselves against oxidation. The more common cuvées from the trade (premier cru Fourchaume and grands crus) simply bear the Bernard Defaix label, but are highly recommendable. The entry-level wines offer remarkable value for money, and the grand crus have progressed: the domaine is in good shape.

Burghound

About the wine :

Here too, the wood treatment is pleasingly subtle, though noticeable on the ripe, layered aromas of candied citrus, poached pear, shellfish and a hint of wet stone. Here, too, the medium-bodied, beautifully textured flavors display excellent volume and obvious power and minerality on the slyly long, saline, dry finish. This wine also deserves to be discovered. 2029+ / Top Quality/Price

Jancis Robinson

About the wine :

Green fruit flavors that are clearly intense enough to stand up to the oak. Good nerve. The structure is there, but this wine should age very well and shouldn't be ridiculously expensive. Not incredibly long, however. 2027-2040