Organic wine, natural wine

Strictly speaking, there is no specific certification for organic wine. The notion of organic wine covers wines produced using viticulture or winemaking methods that respect nature, and which have been awarded a specific label. As already mentioned, there is as yet no legal certification for organic wine, although this is in the pipeline, but labels of semi-public or private origin whose seriousness stems either from their approval by the Ministry of Agriculture, the INAO or the Direction Générale de la Concurrence, de la Consommation et de la Répression des Fraudes (DGCCRF), or from the guarantee of quality and professionalism they inspire. Organic wine does not therefore concern a specific production region, or even an appellation, let alone a particular color, but rather estates and even plots of land that meet the specifications imposed by the certifying body.

1. Organic wines: the AB label

Organic farming has been recognized by the French authorities since 1980. Today, regulations concerning this label have been adopted at European level. The specifications for obtaining the AB label aim to impose an agricultural production method that preserves soil quality, natural resources, the environment and the local maintenance of agricultural professions. The AB label therefore guarantees that 95% of the products from this type of agriculture are made from crops that do not use synthetic fertilizers or phytosanitary products (insecticides, herbicides, fungicides, etc.) or genetically modified organisms (GMOs). In the case of wine, however, the AB label means that the vines have been grown in accordance with strict organic farming specifications, but does not guarantee the winemaking process. However, to enhance the value of their production, winegrowers often apply the same precepts when transforming grapes into wine, notably by adhering to the Charter of the Fédération Nationale Interprofessionnelle des Vins de l'Agriculture Biologique.

2. Biodynamic wines

Biodynamic agriculture was inspired by Rudolph Steiner's 1924 lectures to German farmers concerned about the deteriorating quality of their crops. Biodynamic agriculture has much in common with organic farming, but goes further in its solutions. For example, only composts of plant or animal origin can be used. Half a dozen preparations are used to combat parasites and soil impoverishment, or to promote vine growth. Biodynamic farming is also unique in that it uses a crop calendar based on lunar, planetary and zodiacal cycles. In short, Biodynamic agriculture aims not only to make farming sustainable, but also to preserve the qualities of the grape. Biodynamic winegrowing also goes further than the AB label in that its principles apply not only to vine cultivation, but also to the winemaking process, again requiring the exclusion of all additions that are not of natural origin, and a respect for the rhythms of nature.

3. Sustainable agriculture

Agriculture raisonnée is not organic farming in the sense that it does not prohibit the use of synthetic products. However, it can be a step towards the AB or Biodynamic label. Agriculture raisonnée is therefore an official certificate issued to farmers who adopt technical means and agricultural practices that comply with the requirements of the agriculture raisonnée reference system. These standards are set out in Decree no. 2002-631 of April 25, 2002, and contain over one hundred selective criteria imposing respect for the environment, control of sanitary risks, health and safety at work, and animal welfare. However, this certification has been criticized by some as a mere reminder of standards that are already compulsory, or as the minimum basis for responsible agriculture. The fact remains, however, that certification of compliance with standards provides an additional guarantee for the consumer, and that "agriculture raisonnée" can be seen as a motivating step towards certification that is much more restrictive, and therefore risky, for the winegrower.

4. Certificates and certification bodies

On its own, therefore, the notion of organic wine is not enough to enlighten the wine-lover about production or vinification methods, and it is therefore necessary to know what the labels claimed correspond to.

The AB label, whose consequences and limitations have already been explained, is awarded by independent certifiers such as ACLAVE, AGROCERT, QUALITE FRANCE S.A., ULASE, SGS ICS and ECOCERT, undoubtedly the best known of these.

Biodynamic farms are eligible for "DEMETER" certification, issued by the Déméter Agriculture Organic-Dynamique association. This is a non-official organization, but its Charter guarantees respect for the principles of Biodynamic agriculture. The "NATURE ET PROGRES" label, which complies with the specifications laid down by the International Federation of Agriculture and Ecobiology, is today the most rigorous. In addition to the Biodynamic principles it imposes, this label guarantees respect for the environment in all areas of production: winemaking, the social environment, the fight against agricultural intensification, transport, the manufacture of packaging and corks, etc. These two organizations are independent of AB certification. There is also the BIODYVIN label issued by the Syndicat international des Vignerons en Culture Organic-Dynamique, many of whose members do not belong to the DEMETER association. This label is also issued by ECOCERT according to the association's specific charter.

Finally, integrated agriculture is certified by independent certifiers, some of whom may be the same as those who issue the AB label. These organizations are approved by the Commission nationale de l'agriculture raisonnée. At the initiative of the winegrowers concerned, a specific label has been created for integrated viticulture, applying the principles of the charter to the particularities of vineyard work and wine-making: this is the TERRA VITIS label.