Marcel Deiss - Alsace Gruenspiel 2018

Bettane & Desseauve

About the wine:

An astonishing nose of strong flowers (gentian), leather and hops. On the palate, this wine is structured by its bitters, which give it gastronomic balance as it digests residual sugars. Original right down to its flavors.

About the domain :

Although Jean-Michel Deiss spends a lot of time in his vineyards, it's his son Mathieu who is in charge of vinification. An engaging winemaker, his sensitivity is evident in the evolution of his wines, particularly the Pinot Noirs, which become more delicate and refined with each vintage. In the whites, trials of maceration give thickness and depth to the textures on the palate. As a winegrower-entrepreneur, Mathieu has expanded his vineyard from 27 to 45 hectares, including his Vignoble du Rêveur project with his partner Emmanuelle Milan. Since 2020, two hectares have been devoted to the production of vine seedlings, and the estate has acquired its own planting machine, reinforcing its autonomy and mastery of all aspects of the winemaking profession.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the wine:

More reserved on the nose, Gruenspiel unfurls a spherical, spicy substance, transfigured by an almost telluric vibration. With notes of gentian and star anise on the finish, its unusual personality is reminiscent of certain vermouths.

About the domain :

Mathieu Deiss succeeds his father Jean-Michel at the head of this venerable Bergheim estate. Complantation is still the guiding principle, even for the grands crus. Even though the process is ancestral in the region, it remains little used and divides the winegrowers sharply. The Deisses take this approach one step further, delivering convincing, complex wines with marvellous intensity of flavour and incredible balance. Mathieu has also created the Vignoble du Rêveur from his mother's vineyards in Bennwihr (where he produces some top-flight orange wines). The wines are out of the ordinary for the region, which is a little disconcerting for the consumer, but the result is magnificent. With a few years' hindsight, it's easy to appreciate the precision of the terroir definitions and the ability of these wines to manage their own balance. To be discovered at the estate: the unique experience of geo-sensory tasting, which enables you to understand the relationship between a wine's characteristics and the terroir in which it was born.

Vinous A. Galloni

James Suckling