Domaine Marcel Deiss - Alsace Riquewihr 2021

Bettane & Desseauve

About the domain :

Although Jean-Michel Deiss spends a great deal of time in his vineyards, it is his son Mathieu who is in charge of vinification. An engaging winemaker, his sensitivity is evident in the evolution of his wines, particularly the Pinot Noirs, which become more delicate and refined with each vintage. In the whites, trials of maceration give thickness and depth to the textures on the palate. As a winegrower-entrepreneur, Mathieu has expanded his vineyard from 27 to 45 hectares, including his Vignoble du Rêveur project with his partner Emmanuelle Milan. Since 2020, two hectares have been dedicated to the production of vine seedlings, and the estate has acquired its own planting machine, reinforcing its autonomy and mastery of all aspects of the winemaking profession.

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the domain :

Mathieu Deiss succeeds his father Jean-Michel at the head of this venerable Bergheim estate. Complantation is still the guiding principle, even for the grands crus. Although the process is ancestral in the region, it remains little used and divides winegrowers sharply. The Deisses take this approach one step further, delivering convincing, complex wines with marvellous intensity of flavour and incredible balance. Mathieu has also created the Vignoble du Rêveur from his mother's vineyards in Bennwihr (where he produces some top-flight orange wines). The wines are out of the ordinary for the region, which is a little disconcerting for the consumer, but the result is magnificent. A few years of hindsight allow us to analyze the precision of terroir definitions and the ability of these wines to manage their own balance. To be discovered at the estate: the unique experience of geo-sensory tasting, which enables you to understand the relationship between the characteristics of the wine and the terroir in which it was born.

Vinous A. Galloni

About the wine:

A blend of riesling, pinot gris and a little pinot blanc, Riquewihr 2021 was harvested along the Schoenenbourg grand cru, on the more exposed side of the Sporen grand cru, and in parcels towards Kientzheim. After some funky reduction has dissipated, bright candied lemon notes appear. The palate, on the other hand, is fuller and seems buffered and airy, with highly concentrated freshness, sweet fruit and a zesty, mouth-watering bitterness. The finish is bone-dry, with a hint of ginger.

James Suckling