Domaine Guillot-Broux - Mâcon-Cruzille Les Geniévrières 2020

Robert Parker - Wine Advocate

About the domain :

It took me a while, I admit, to understand the wines of Domaine Guillot-Broux. These are tight, concentrated whites, framed by a chalky dry extract, produced from low yields and intelligent pressing, which take their time to evolve in the cellar. We're far from the stereotypical northern Mâconnais, cheesy, easygoing and generous, but when you visit the vineyards, you'll understand. Rocky, steep, enclosed land on the edge of the forest, some recently reclaimed from encroachment, is planted with old vines of Chardonnay, Gamay and Pinot Noir, and has never seen chemical farming. Of course, opening old bottles also gives meaning to these wines: complex, mineral and sapid, it has to be said that 20 years is the minimum rather than the maximum at this address. But the rewards of patience, as so often, are considerable; and when you get to know them, it's hard to argue that they are among the finest examples of the region. As I've written before, Emmanuel Guillot's grapes are harvested by hand, with the whites pressed directly into barrel and the reds fermented in small vats, often with more than a little whole bunch inclusion. With the 2019 vintage, taking advantage of the market dislocation caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, Guillot has chosen to extend the ageing period: thus most of its whites, having spent a year in barrel, have seen an additional six months in vat. Whether or not it's the inherent quality of the vintage, or the fact that those extra six months really seem to help these structured wines flesh out and relax, the 2019s are the most impressive young wines I've tasted to date at this address,

RVF - La Revue du Vin de France / Guide des Meilleurs Vins de France

About the domain :

The Guillot-Broux estate, certified organic, is one of the most consistent in the Mâcon region. The old vines, perfectly tended, give the wines a resolutely classic style. The domaine relies on well-ripened grapes and avoids sophisticated wood ageing. In this way, Patrice and Emmanuel perpetuate their father's work, preserving its spirit. We are very satisfied with their whites, which are always very controlled and crystalline. The 2019 reds were less successful this year, with the exception of the Beaumont Gamay.